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@whambamsystems Hello Peter, to print this 3D model, should we use PLA or PETG to get the best Isopropyl alcohol resistance?

Hi Me again, I have some gauges on my build plate , I changed my nozzle with out lowering the bed and it gouged the PEX, can it be wet sanded to remove and even out? or will that completely remove the coating and should just be replaced? Please advise.

did not know that my dualsided powder-coated textured pei plate had poor adhesion with petg? i use it for all petg prints and i have to flex the plate hard many times to get prints off it, cant say i agree with you on the "petg does not stick well to pei" part sir. on the contrary u can try yourself? u most likely got those gold colored ones too. i was flabbergasted at how well it does petg. will try this for funsies ;) but i think im going back to the texpei again for sure. the texture is nice too imo

Has this been tested on 3D printers with an enclosure and glass door? Will it shatter the glass. Obviously, cleaning up glass is better than dealing with a burnt down building but I am curious.

I am a big fan of Wham Bam. I was just looking for a thick build plate for printing ABS and ASA. That XTR would be an excellent choice for sure. I will be reaching out. Thanks for the always excellent quality products.

Maybe it's my system, but your audio is very low. May want to fix that. I've been a user of your stuff for a while and your company is great!

I heard that this would work with the p1s, but i am not sure how it would ? Could you confirm ?

Thanks for featuring the Mosquito Magnum+ in your Mutant Quick System! We love the ability to change nozzles and print heads for this exact reason - having purpose built setups for specific applications, an addition to the ease of use for maintenance.

i need this so badly

A €5 aliexpress flex plate world just a good

Is the Hotbox compatible with the X1C as well?

Can you do this video again with used/dirty IPA ? This way we can see the final product

do you have installation about m5s anycubic whambam? need video for that please.

does it fit the p1s for extra insulation?

Man I have nightmares about sitting there adjusting a wheel with slight turns because the bed wasn't perfect. I got the Elegoo Neptune 3 pro and it's basically night and day. I don't mess with it at all, do the bed measurements and off I go. The only tweaking is done with z offset.

will this help a bed that's been ruined by using stock Bambu PETG settings? Wish the wham bam came with a warning to not use Bambu settings AT ALL or else you'll ruin it on your first print. :(

this is a great product, i can imagine a printer farm having these in every printer. I have a smoke alarm directly above each of my printers but am thinking I should get one of these now too

I just ruined my PEX with flexi plate combo for my X1C (forgot to use glue stick becuase I rarely print PETG) can I just replace the surface with the Build Surface sheet? how do I remove it?

Loved the nice simplicity I've also found a small plastic atomiser, such as the sort you get lens cleaner in, works wonders for minor touch ups. Check whatever you use for resistance to acetone first though. No heat required, although it can help dry your model out quicker if required, Word of caution. DO NOT OVER SPRAY! You can always fix not enough but to much is another story

My Saturn 3 Ultra build plate doesn’t look like that and I’m scared to sand it down that much. 😢

Thanks for sharing! I've already applied the mag pad but I'll just cut through to access I think. M4 you say? One idea maybe would be to put a washer between the screw and spring if it won't fit around it. Brilliant though. Mainly I didn't know if they were threaded in apparently not. Answered my question!

The problem that I do not see being addressed in ANY of these videos is that following only removes solid material. It does nothing to remove the dissolved material. Distillation is the only truly effective method.

Just so you all know, you don't have to heat it, it works just fine at room temperature. He says in the video it's very flammable and explosive and then is encouraging people to heat it... and some people may have open flame stove and not think about it. Just do it a little longer at room temperature, no need to put chemicals in a kitchen pan, fumes in your kitchen and in your house, higher risk of fire/explosion etc.

I’m starting to lose hope with the XTR flexplate on my Saturn 3 Ultra. I tried leveling 5 times already, but could never print anything. It’s either to low and the printer starts clicking when homing (although it didn’t when leveling), or too high and the print doesn’t stick to the XTR plate. I tried the method described in the description, as well as many others, but it just does not work (and yes, I did install the correct spacer). Sadly, I’m considering removing the magnet to get my printer back to printing.. Also, the set Z=0 function on the Saturn 3 seems not to function correctly (I know we shouldn’t use that, but I had to try too)

That's so cool!!!👏👏👏

Seems like a neat concept, but for the price I would prefer to build my own toolheads running something like the EBB toolhead board or really any other CAN board, and with klipper this means I don't even have to flash firmware or worry about parameters at all. Your solution seems easier to set up and requires less knowledge, which is neat for a lot of people, but I wonder how applicable it is at the hobbyist level. I can't imagine many people have a reason to change filament size, and nozzle size is an easier swap than entire hotend even with the Mutant system. I'm interested in seeing reviews and long term performance, but always good to see new designs and ideas/implementations

Modifying my Mars 3 right now. Thanks for the amazing and concise explantion that should work for any model.

Where can I find those tools you push led through the hot end. I have three hot ends that are clogged up.

So the big thing is that stainless steel plate is excellent for both easy removal of prints and great for adhesion. You can use a sharp scraper on the stainless surface without worry of damaging the aluminum surface. I would consider just gluing the stainless plate onto the aluminum buildplate and forget using the magnet.

What would you do if your aluminium bed is not flat? Would you fill up the gaps with aluminium tape?

I hate bed levelling they got me whit the auto bed levelling

The support link gives 404 error.

Do you need to have the side fan and cpu fan installed?

Why is it that all these videos seem to skip the initial tightening of the bed wheels?

Random association: your grids look like bottom nozzles from PWR nuclear fuel assemblies. Just something from my job.

'PromoSM'

I actually find my P1S way noisier than the P1P. The enclosure makes every movement amplified, as it resonates with the panels. I tested fully opening my P1S and it's way quieter than open. Your Hotbox looks cool too

With that price? A blanket over it works just fine for 1/5th of a price.

How do you know if you have purchased the original or XTR? Just bought the plate for my Saturn 3 Ultra.

Despite following these instructions and sanding after doing what I felt was a pretty good leveling on 2 machines, both machines failed to adhere. I'll try to manipulate the settings and I ran a known good print last night we'll see but I'm skeptical that it adhered. I'll try releveling but... I was able to print out the box with the standard machine, was hoping this would be easy

Curious why you don't sell on Amazon, I understand they take 15% or so depending on category but seems the volume sold would offset the fees.

A very interesting tutorial and cleaning kit. Most of my machines are direct drive and usually my jams are inside the extruder itself. It's a little tricky with the machines that come with the knock off / clone Bondtech BMGs and getting gunked up material out of the gears and teeth Maybe some ideas for another cleaning kit for extruders!

I’ve got your new nozzle tool kit Peter, and it does a outstanding job

Another excellent job Peter thanks for all the information it will help

assuming the power supply and control screen were outside the enclosure, would a 3D printer be salvageable after the use of one ot these? or is the whole 3d printer basically ruined?

Another outstanding product Peter

how flame retardant is the hotbox? id like to know more

i should have bought this instead of p1s tbh

Great explanation and demo of the magnet's strength!